A general tidy up in the first few years will be sufficient, simply remove any dead wood and crossed over branches, then when you feel that it becoming too tall, just prune it back accordingly. Plant your Osmanthus in full sun or semi shade, grows in any reasonable free draining soil
The best time to prune Osmanthus is the end of February or beginning of March. It's not a good idea to do it any sooner, since the branches can then freeze. If Osmanthus is used as a hedge or other topiary form, it's advisable to prune it in June and September.
Osmanthus Delavayi vs Burkwoodii
— Check if you don’t have any products like these available. Buy only what you need to ensure you have the right variety available. If using this form, ensure it’s the correct variety and grade or you could end up needing to buy another plant Osmanthus is a tough plant and should be only pruned when the soil level is not too high and the sap runs clear. Sap production from Osmanthus shrubs and small trees is addictive. It’s given us the Spanish word for ‘Osmanthus syrup’, and Osmanthus creates a sweet tingle in the mouth for humans which can last for hours after a small ‘eat me’ taste. While many people consider cutting it back the first spring to encourage the new growth to form straight growth the following summer, this will not work.
They grow too tall for the amount of time it takes for the growth to form again after the first frost after the warm weather in April. Summer is the ideal time to prune as the new growths are usually not as vigorous as the first frost after the warm weather leaves gradually emerge in May. A popular way to prune back new growth is by coiling it around a tree or hedge to create more space. Whatever method you choose the Osmanthus should remain rooted either in a teatree or hanging basket in the ground, so the new growth will want to form from the top down. If the new growth begins to form after a while the soil around it will be too warm to support the seed pods. You need to remove any organic material, like branches, seed pods, rain shower or other seeds that have not germinated.
Place the Osmanthus back in the ground and lock it in place with oil or a tight fitting trust (stainless steel wire works). Another way to remove those seeds is to chop the seeds up into small pieces and sprinkle thoroughly over the hole the seed is stuck in. Oil works well for this. This will help the seeds stick and it’s also a good way to avoid dealing with bird droppings. Congratulations! Your newfound plant is now thriving like a weed in your garden or in your handbag to be admired, enjoyed or sold. Depending on where you found it, the next few years will be equally exciting for you. Get back to the garden.
Osmanthus Fragrans vs Burkwoodii
After the first frost, prune Osmanthus again. It takes 2–4 weeks for the new growth to appear after the last frost.
It may help to leave the base of the plant to generously dry out before pruning, since it is quite difficult to prune the central stalk out.
If you don’t mind a gap between the leaves, then it may be best to leave the whole plant standing after the last frost. The more exposed the plants towards the sun the faster the leaves will wilt and die, so leaving the plants bright-coloured helps in this respect. However, there is one ground that indicates against the uprooting. The new growth will improve soil structure and improve drainage. Finally, there is a small chance that you may be able to remove the offending branch before it turns black-coloured.
To prune the plant, begin where ever you like on the plant, and work your way up towards the top, fairly carefully, being careful not to damage the existing stalk. It is common to see Osmanthus plants creating little, if not triangular shaped gaps between the leaf stems after the first frost. When this is the case, stem the plant back to encourage them to spread out. As older Osmanthus plants have less vigour, the likelihood of these gaps becoming gaps big enough to cause significant drainage is lower. In either case, the next hazard is to avoid tendrils coming forward from opposite sides of the gap.
Like many conifers, the shoots of the Osmanthus are more susceptible to attack by rust, powdery mildew, and rot. Superficial infections of the young shoots and the entire plant growth can lead to very severe symptom-heavy infections. The easiest method to handle rust on the shoots is to catch it in the atmosphere. Another method is to use a rototiller in case the air is dry.
Another common damage to the shoots is to acute which later progresses to the entire plant. Unfortunately, for many years the damage was thought to be either being either from too much moisture in the soil or over watering. Osmanthus plants can be grown without water for a considerable time, but this has never been a long-term satisfactory solution.
With very dry conditions, it is not uncommon for the leaves to turn yellow, encouraging the advice for watering less frequently. If dry conditions persist, then the soil should be thoroughly moistened. Repotting is not really a recommended way when the growing period of Osmanthus is under 4 years, since the shoots are too large and difficult to be handled and trained.
Watering should be done regularly throughout the summer and autumn after it has become established. It can be difficult to tell whether the soil temperature is sufficiently cool for your Osmanthus to survive the winter in a container. If the soil is too dry in spring the soil temperature must be raised in summer. During the last week of September, the soil should be moistened with a mixture of Epsom salts and water. This moisture increase keeps the soil slightly wet all summer. This is particularly important in the hotter months, no matter how dry the soil is in winter.
The plant will only really need watering in the summer if the soil dries out in winter, but the water is generally sufficient during the dry season.
The temperature of the soil should be around 18-20 degrees Celsius. If the soil temperature is higher, then it may be necessary to loosen the soil with a shovel or pick to separate the soil from the roots.
Uses: This is an easy houseplant and works like a charm in almost any indoor environment. It is also suitable for shade in a cold room or as a border plant on a white background. It is also an excellent plant for pairing with another indoor plant.
Cultivating Information
For optimal growth, use consistently warm water but not too wet. Begin each day by draining the excess water from the soil. Add a heavy layer of vermiculite or pumice stone to the water and wait one to two hours for the vermiculite to decompose, then re-water thoroughly. Do not let water sit out in the sun for more than 12-24 hours.
The plant is happiest when the soil is damp but not soggy.
Hardening off the soil with a mixture of Epsom salts and water burns off excess plant hormones and keeps the plant from producing new growth. Mix the mixture into your compost to cool the soil down, but do not let the mixture absorb all the moisture.
Old water from spills or toilet waste should be periodically re-used for watering the plant from Spring to Fall.
